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Dormancy in Seed

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Dormancy in seeds is a common issue for farmers majorly in soil seed banks. Dormancy in seeds is simply the result of improper environmental conditions. Owing to the adverse environment, seeds stop germination. Even though you might curse dormancy, trust me, many plants would have extinct long ago without seed dormancy. Dormancy helps seeds to adapt to changing environments and survive extinction.

We will have more insights on seed dormancy throughout the blog. If you are new to the idea, you might want to go through Dormancy in Plants.

What is Dormancy in Seeds?

Seeds are a crucial part of any plant. Seeds help plants to sustain themselves. But a seed might always not ensure a birth. Meanwhile, the germination of seeds can halt anytime, resulting in dormant seeds.

Dormant seeds fail to produce plants, hence someone like you looking forward to healthy and happy plants might get heartbroken.

Why does Dormancy in Seeds happen?

Dormancy occurs as triggered by adverse situations where the baby plant might not survive in the soil seed bank. Improper soil conditions, lack of sufficient water, nutrients, oxygen, temperature and other required factors can easily trigger dormancy in seeds.

Plants often use dormancy so that seeds can withstand adverse conditions and not all germinate at once saving them from perishing in bad weather. This has helped plants to adapt to weather and other changes and saved them from extinction.

What are the Types of Dormancy in Seeds?

You can divide the types of dormancy into five categories by the reasons behind dormancy;

  • Physiological dormancy or secondary dormancy is the major type of dormancy in mature seeds where seeds shut down the germination process owing to the harsh environment. This happens internally as an influence of external factors. Most of the seeds fail to germinate owing to such dormancy.
  • Morphological dormancy is the result of immature seeds. As the seeds are not mature enough, they never make it to the next stage till the germination of seeds.
  • Morphophysiological dormancy is the result of both Psychological and Morphological dormancy, where the seed is immature or simply incomplete and faces psychological issues while germination.
  • Physical dormancy or primary dormancy is caused by water-impermeable layers of palisade cells in the mature seed or fruit coat that control water movement. This can easily be avoided by keeping watering in control.
  • Combinational dormancy is simple the joint reason for physiological and physical dormancy or primary dormancy and secondary dormancy in any mature seed.

How to Treat Dormant Seed?

There are some simple ways to break dormancy in seeds. You can use one from the below to ensure germination in your seeds,

  • Seed Scarification: Seed scarification can be your best option to fight dormancy in seeds. Seed scarification helps you to break the seed coat and help the seed bloom.

Scarification refers to any process of breaking, scratching, or mechanically altering the seed coat to make it permeable to water and gases. In nature, this is effectively achieved through fall seeding. During the winter, freezing temperatures or microbial activity alter the seed coat. Scarification can also happen when seeds pass through the digestive systems of different animals.

Scarification can also be forced rather than allowing nature to change the seed coats. Scarifying seeds is done commercially by soaking them in concentrated sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid is poured over the seeds in a glass container. Depending on the species, the seeds are gently stirred and allowed to soak for 10 minutes to several hours. Various reference books provide appropriate treatment concentrations and durations. The seeds are removed, washed, and soon after the seed coat has been modified (thinned). Sulfuric acid, on the other hand, can be extremely dangerous for inexperienced users and should be used with extreme caution! Vinegar is a less dangerous (but less effective) treatment that can be used on species that do not have an extremely hard seed coat; the technique is the same as with sulfuric acid.

  • Seed Stratification: Your second method to fight seed dormancy can be seed stratification.

Morphophysiological dormancy, which is regulated by the inner seed tissues, is the second type of imposed dormancy found in seeds. When environmental conditions are not favourable for seedling survival, this dormancy prevents many species’ seeds from germinating. There are various degrees or types of internal dormancy. Internal dormancy that is “shallow” simply disappears with dry storage. This type of dormancy can be found in many vegetable seeds. There are no special treatments required to break this type of dormancy.

Another type of internal dormancy, on the other hand, necessitates specialized treatment. Seeds with this type of dormancy will not germinate until they are subjected to a specific period of moist-prechilling and/or moist warming. Cold stratification (moist-prechilling) entails placing seeds in a closed container with an equal volume of a moist medium (such as sand or peat) and storing them in a refrigerator (around 40°F).

Seeds of some species exhibit what is known as double dormancy. This is a combination of seed coat and internal dormancy. To achieve germination with seeds having double dormancy, the seeds must first be scarified and then stratified for the appropriate length of time. If the treatments are administered in reverse order, the seeds will not germinate. After these treatments, sow the seeds under the proper environmental conditions for germination.

These two are two great methods for you to carry out in your home. The rest will need to get you a laboratory and some extra degrees in biology.

What is dormancy in plants?

You may suddenly have found your plant not thriving like a few days before. The overall outlook of your plant might get gloomy, and the edges of the leaves might look wilted, showing the signs of dormancy mechanism in your plant. Don’t get perplexed if you have heard about the dormancy of plants. This article will be your tour to know about dormancy in plants.

Dormancy of plants may arise from a set of reasons like excessive heat or dry weather, freezing temperature, and water or nutrients deficiency or other environmental conditions. Dormancy in plants might not take them to death but hamper your regular view of your garden. You might also look for dormancy in seeds from our article to better understand dormancy-related issues in gardening.

What is Dormancy in Plants?

Dormancy in plants can be compared to our fatigue system. When we reach our limit and can’t move on, we take a nap to get charged up for the next day. Likewise, when plants can get the optimum environment to live in, they stop growing and conserve energy till favourable conditions returns. Unfavourable conditions like too much up-down in temperature, dry or cold weather, and shortage of water or necessary nutrients might trigger plants to go into dormancy in response. It’s a sort of protection mechanism that ensures the longevity of plants.

What is the common time for Dormancy in Plants?

Dormancy in plants may occur at any time of the year. As there is no specific reason behind it, there is no specific time for the dormancy process to appear besides unfavourable environmental conditions. However, winter might prove to be a little different. A common phenomenon exists for perennial plants to enter dormancy in the winter. In winter, plants take a gloomy look, leavers dry off. Taking preparations to fully bloom in spring as a part of their metabolic processes. Meanwhile the resting period, the plants pass through a delicate time where they need some extra care to help them live for an extended period of time.

What happens when plants enter Dormancy

Annual plants simply stop growing or blooming when they decide to go into dormancy. It’s like getting some rest before the next period of growth. Plants might start to consume less water and the soil may stay hydrated for longer times during the period of dormancy. Growth cessation, flowers falling apart, and leaves wilting are symptoms of the development of dormancy.

How to deal with Dormant Plants?

If you are looking for ways to support your plants on their bad days, then you will have a wide range of options open at your hand based on the form of dormancy.

  • For water insufficiency: If your soil is dry and your plant is dormant, there is a huge chance that the shied may arise from a lack of water. If this happens so, you may simply raise the quantity and time of water you provide to your plant. If it’s a potted plant and has many drainage holes, you may simply put some off the holes to ensure that water stays in the pot. The soil might lose its ability to hold water owing to a lack of fertility. So, it’s better to put some fertiliser or nutrients in the soil. You may look in your nearest garden store for it or look on Amazon. Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant food is my personal favourite when it comes to these kinds of scenarios. (https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-1001233-Purpose-Plant-Food/dp/B000P6QYJK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1M0SQF2WQ1SDF&keywords=fertilizer&qid=1659205059&sprefix=fertilizer%2Caps%2C412&sr=8-2)
  • Dry weather: In dry seasons, you may need to put up more water into the air to resemble the required humidity. You may keep some water in something near the plants so the heat will dry up the water and increase humidity in the air near your plant. You can use humidifier devices for your indoor plants. If none of them seems viable simply water your plants to keep the soil from drying out.
  • Winter dormancy: To fight cooler temperatures or winter dormancy, you will need to take some steps altogether to help your plants sustain. First, curb your watering schedule, waterless at both amount and frequency. You can also prune off some old parts and wilted leaves. This will also help the plant after the dormancy period. Stop giving nutrients for a few days and if possible, change the soil or repot the plant. Changing the soil can prove to be useful during colder temperatures. Plants always love fresh soil. If the humidity goes too lower than average, a humidifier or any effort to elevate the humidity near the plant.
  • Lack of nutrients: Lack of proper nutrition might also force a plant to get into dormancy. Adding more fertilizer or nutrients is the prime move a gardener should take in such cases. However, reporting the plant or changing the soil might add a boost to your effort to bring back your plant.

These are the ways you could support your dormant plant and help them recover from unfavourable conditions. You may also want to look into seed dormancy to get a better grasp on dormancy issues.

How Often Should I Water MY Spider Plant?

Spider Plant, also called the name Airplane Plant, is one of the most seen in-house gardening plants. This quick-growing plant just needs indirect sunlight and to be free from frost or moisture to outgrow any other plant with little like almost no care.

The plant also bears tremendous air-purifying qualities besides its nice and decent look. These plants are adored for their cute little white flowers besides green leaves.

Due to their ever-pleasant look, they can be placed almost anywhere in the house and boost the interior of the house.

So, How Often Should I Water MY Spider Plant?

Watering the plant once a week may become a good game for you but still, it may vary for your case due to weather, humidity, and other aspects. So, do check before watering.

How Often Should I Water MY SPIDER
Michael Pieracci / Flicker

Basics of Watering Spider Plant

Spider plants contain tuberous roots which help them to store water. Also, these South African native plants need a very less amount of water to stay healthy and vivid. As with other indoor plants you can use tap water to water them.

If the plants are overwatered or kept in moist soil, the leaves may turn into droopy leaves and the sharp tips may turn into brown leaf tips.

You may get yourself a pot with a better water drainage system to ensure moisture-free dry soil which may prevent these disasters.

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So, don’t keep excess water in your pot of soil.  For that, you may use well-draining soil or a pot with bigger drainage holes.

How do You Know It’s the Time to Water Your Spider Plant

It’s very important to check the soil before watering the spider plant for the stake of its life. Make sure the soil has dried before you water them.

You can simply put your finger into the soil and do a quick finger test.

If you finger traces dump them within one or two inches of soil you can recheck and then water them after finding dry soil.

How Much Water Does Your Spider Plant Need

There is no fixed amount on your plants’ need for water. It will vary on certain facts; like, location, soil type, time of the year, and even the growth stage is your plant currently in.

Younger spider plants need more water as they grow fast.

watering in spider plant

But in the case of adult plants, the requirement falls dramatically. As tuberous roots help the mature plants store water, they tend to need less amount of water.

So, it depends upon the plant how much water it needs besides the frequency of watering.

How Often is too Often

You may need to stop watering your plants if they tend to get affected by root rot or brown tips.

However, you may simply water your twice a week in summer and fewer times to your baby spider plants. Mature plants require less water.

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So, in summer, water them twice every three weeks and again much lesser in winter.

Keep in mind that these frequencies might be needed to be altered for your plant depending upon your location and plant’s growth stage.

What to Do in Summer and Winter

Watering spider plant in summer: As the summer months take hydration and we need more water in the summer, please do water your plants a little more in summer.

Watering spider plant in winter: In winter, you can almost give up on watering your spider plant. You may need to water them hardly once in three or two weeks. Don’t be surprised even if you need water once or twice a month.

Do test the soil to know about the best timing to water your spider plant. Keep faith in your intuition too.

How to Know if You are Overwatering

The spider plant is very much a water-sensitive plant. If you do any blunder by any mistake, they will let you know immediately. They will signal you through some symptoms.

Among these symptoms may include, roots rotting, green leaves turning into brown leaves, the sharp tips losing their sharpness, and becoming browning tips are really easy to find out.

spider plant leaves turning into brown

If this happens to your spider plants, stop feeding them and keep them near a sunny window until they are back in form.

As they recover fast, you will see them back in their older shape in almost no time.

How to Know if You are Watering less

Like overwatering, a healthy spider plant might signal you even if you provide them with less water.

When you keep them on thirst, the leaves will start to fade out their color and take a faded lighter green color.

If these happen keep attention to your plant and water them a bit more and increase the soil moisture than before.

Thanks to their rapid recovery, they will come around in almost no time.

Bonus tips:

How to Care Spider Plant

It takes very little effort behind spider plant care as it naturally grows quickly without much hustle.

However, a little effort will help you keep adult plants green and lively. here is a small plant guide for your use:

Spider plant cutting :

Pruning the leaves in summer or spring helps the plant stay healthy and manage humidity level to average humidity.

For the same, you need to cut off the excess leaves direct from the base of the adult plant. For adult spider plant cutting, you may use a garden scissor or a pair of scissors.

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Avoid direct sunlight:

The spider plant is a sunlight-sensitive plant. For the same, it needs to be kept out of reach from direct sunlight or bright light.

Keeping it in direct sunlight will burn the leaves, and eventually, the plant will die. But again, the plant needs some light to survive.

disadvantage of sunlight for spider plant

So, never forget to keep the plant in a place with indirect light. South-facing windows may give you a better advantage in this case.

Better Water drainage : 

The spider plant is also a water-sensitive plant. It would be best to make sure the pot you are using has a better drainage system, and that extra water does not stay on the soil for long.

You will also need to refrain from watering the plant in winter or cold weather. If you keep feeding them in winter, the plant will eventually die out of water.

Winter care: 

Spider plant hates cold temperatures besides extra humidity.

So, in these conditions, you will need to give them some artificial heat or light to survive.

Final Words

Hope the “How Often Should I Water MY Spider Plant” article fulfilled your desire.

Watering spider plants may seem a complex and tiresome process at first.

But as you get into the game it’ll become a piece of cake. Remember to check the soil before watering.

Also, keep an eye on your plant to get notified about the updates at even smaller changes.

How to prune an overgrown apple tree?

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Nobody wants an overgrown apple tree in their backyards. When you leave the apple tree without cutting it for a long time, it may become an over-grown apple tree. However, you can maintain the desired measurement of an overgrown apple tree by pruning. In addition, pruning the over-grown apple tree can encourage its growth. 

Pruning is an easy task though sometimes you need to follow a definite way to prune. Many times it so happens that pruning in the wrong way can damage the tree. So, how can you prune an overgrown tree?

Well, I am here to talk about the proper way for pruning an overgrown apple tree. So, let’s din in deeper to know more about this!

How to prune an overgrown apple tree

Five steps to prune an overgrown tree!

When you are about to cut your tree, you need to consider many things. Like disease or pests can attack the tree if you prune the tree in the wrong way. That’s why I don’t want you to make mistakes that can be a death threat to the plant while pruning.

Here I am mentioning the steps of pruning one by one so that you can follow them.

Step 01: Appropriate timing for pruning!

During summer, you can prune the tree to maintain a manageable size. On the other hand, during late winter, you can prune the tree to encourage growth.

For example, there are six limbs on the tree. During winter, the sap goes down out of those branches. So, when you cut three branches in winter, they will grow back in spring. Because during spring, the sap will rise again, and it will look for those branches again. Thus, there will be a lot of new growth in spring.

On the other hand, when you cut the limbs with sap in summer, there will be no stimulation for growing new limbs. 

That’s why, if you want to maintain the shape of the tree, you should prune it in summer. The problem with summer pruning is that sometimes the tree becomes sensitive to diseases and pests.

However, you can prune the tree in late winter as this will be less shocking for the tree. But the problem is the tree may grow those branches again. 

Besides that, when the suckers and the unproductive wood grow on the tree, you should start pruning. Heavy pruning and removal of those suckers and unwanted branches can encourage the growth of fruiting spurs.

Also, there will be more space inside the tree for better air circulation and sunbath. 

Step 02: Collect your tools!

If you don’t have the right cutting tools, all your efforts will go in vain. Well, make sure that the tools you are using are sharp enough and clean. If you use dirty and dull tools, it can damage the tree by injuries to the bark.

You can cut the smaller limb easily with the shears, but the larger branches may need heavy tools. You can use pruning shears for the small branches. Besides this, the hand saw, or the electric saw for cutting large limbs.

No matter what tools you are using, keep your comfort and knowledge about those tools first. Also, you can use heavy-duty gloves, and safety glasses, hardhat to maintain your safety. On top of that, the blades should be sharp. Otherwise, they may harm you or the tree. 

Moreover, you may need a ladder to cut the upper branches if the tree is too tall to reach. Also, don’t forget to keep a trash bag to collect the trashes after cutting. 

Step 03: What to cut and what not to cut

Planning is an essential part of pruning the tree. If you start cutting the tree without planning, you may leave poor wood on the tree. Or else, you may prune an essential limb that is crucial for the tree.

That’s why you should know which part of the tree you should cut and which part should not. So, let’s learn more about it. 

Dead, damaged, and diseased branches!

diseased tree branches

At first, you should remove all the diseased, damaged, and dead branches from the tree. You can identify the deadwood by its peeled barks, and dark or brittle texture. You should remove these branches as they are nothing but trash on your tree. Then you should remove the diseased branches as a diseased limb can spread the disease.

Also, the injured wood can be an ideal place for pest attacks. So you should remove those branches with open wounds on them. 

Sucker branches

We often prune the tree to encourage growth. But not all growing branches are beneficial for the tree. There are some branches called suckers coming out of the base, and then there are whorls that grow surrounding the shoots. Also, water shoots are growing straight upright from the branches. 

So, all these suckers, whorls, and water shoots are not going to bear any fruits. These branches only absorb energy and sap from the plant. So, removing all these irrelevant branches will help the tree to get proper nutrition.

Also, pruning these branches will help you to structure the tree properly by cutting them earlier in pruning. 

Lower branches 

The lower branches are too shady to bear any apples. Besides that, these lower limbs can attract deer and other animals to the tree. So, it’s better to get rid of those shoots. Remove the lower limbs for about 4 feet from the ground. Also, prune the down-facing branches. 

Problematic branches

Remove the crisscross shoots from the branches that are disturbing the main or large limbs. These branches will damage the scaffold branch after growing. Besides that, it may ruin the shape of the tree.

So, it is better to remove them before they cause any problem to the tree. 

Competitor branches

You need only one central trunk in your apple tree. So if the number of the main branches is more than one, you should prune them. You will not want other major larger limbs to compete with your trunk for nutrition and energy.

Thin branches

Many irrelevant interior thin branches may create a messy bush. Because of this mess, the sunlight and air can’t get inside the plant properly. So, cut those light and delicate shoots so that the air and sun can reach the fruits properly.

Also, if you remove them, the essential limbs of the tree can rest properly on the plant at a greater than 45 degrees angle. 

You can remove the thin branch as much as possible. But make sure that you are not removing more than one-third of the limbs. All this pruning will result in new growth. So, don’t hesitate to prune the poor branch. 

Step 04: Cross-check the tree!

After cutting all the branches, you can cross-check the tree so that no poor wood is left behind. Check the upper limbs whether they are shorter than the lower ones or not. After the final cut, the tree should resemble a pyramid with properly spaced parallel branches.

There should be enough space left so that a bird can fly through that structure without touching it. The tree may seem bare at first, but it will be healthy and fulfilled after it starts to grow.

Step 05: Clean the space!

This cleaning task is fun and tiring at the same time. Well, but you can’t leave the place untidy. So, remove all the affected poor branches from there. Also, if you keep the infectious limbs near the tree, they may attack the tree again.

That’s why it is better to remove them as early as possible. 

Some extra tips!

  • Cut the branch from the collar of the limb. Also, trim the edge of the cutting place. 
  • Prune above an out-facing bud if you are pruning the tree for shaping purposes. This type of cutting will encourage the branch’s growth outward. 
  • Avoid pruning above the in-facing bud, as this will encourage the growth of branches inward. So, then the inward limbs may disturb other limbs.

Final thoughts!

Pruning the tree can improve the tree’s health. By pruning, you remove the dead and unhealthy branches from the tree. As a result, for the remaining limbs, there will be more nutrients and energy. These energy and nutrient will encourage its new growth.

Besides this, there will be no crowd of branches on the tree. There will be good air circulation and better access to sunlight. With all these benefits, you can get a bountiful harvest for sure.

That’s why I suggest you prune an overgrown apple tree if you want to get bountiful crops. Follow the steps one by one, and I hope you will have a great harvest from your over-grown apple tree!

How to prune old apple tree?

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Many people give up on taking care of their old apple tree. But old apple trees can also bear fruits if you prune them. 

The previous year I wanted to cut down the old apple tree in my backyard. But then my neighbor told me to prune my old apple tree as there were no apples on the tree. The result of pruning an old apple tree is unbelievable! I noticed the apples were growing again on my old apple tree.

Prune the old apple tree in your backyard to get a bountiful harvest. But if you don’t know how to prune the old apple tree, then don’t worry. I am here to guide you on the way to pruning the old apple tree! So, let’s dig in deeper!

Purning old apple tree

Seven easy steps to prune the old apple tree!

Everything works properly as well as becomes easier when you follow the steps accordingly. So, if you follow the steps of pruning, the hard work will pay off.

Here I am mentioning the process of pruning the old tree step by step. Let’s check them fast!

Step 01: Examine the tree’s condition thoroughly!

The tree you are planning to prune should be healthy even though it is old. Pruning a healthy tree can promote growth and fruit production. But pruning can’t help a fragile, lifeless, and unhealthy tree.

Notice the following things, and you will know whether you should prune the tree or not:

  • If half of the tree’s branches are grayish and crinkled, the tree is not worthy of pruning.
  • If the barks are damaged or peeling off the tree, they won’t survive. That fruit tree might not receive nutrients through the trunk.  
  • Also, if there is no sign of new growth at the end of the limbs, pruning will not give benefit.

Step 02: Know when to prune the tree!

Prune the tree in early spring, or in late winter when the danger of frost has passed. This is the best time since the tree will come out of dormancy and head towards new growth during these seasons.

If you prune the tree before the end of the winter, the cold may damage the tree. 

Step 03: Prepare your cutting tools!

Don’t prune the tree using bare hands as you can hurt yourself along with the tree. So, it’s better to use gloves, loppers, a pruning saw with fine teeth and secateurs for pruning.

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Besides that, you can also use a small chainsaw for cutting the thick limbs. If the tree is too tall to reach the uppermost branch, you can use a ladder for cutting those uppermost branches. 

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Step 04: Use sharp cutting tools!

The tools you are going to use for pruning should be clean and sharp. So if required, you should clean and sharpen them. You cannot use dull and dirty tools as they can cause rough wounds and infections. 

You can clean the tools with a 9:1 ratio mixture of water and bleach and some steel wool. Besides that, you can sharpen the tools from a local blacksmith or hardware shop. 

Step 05: Take the preparation for cutting!

Once you have done your tools, you can prepare the other things required for cutting. At first, place the ladder against the tree and check whether the tree can take the weight or not.

The tree may look strong and firm but it may not. So, when you will start climbing the ladder, the tree may break. 

You can stand on the first bar of the ladder or lean your weight against the ladder. If you hear a cracking sound, then the tree is not ready to take your weight.

However, if your tree is not too high to reach, there is no need to use a ladder. 

Step 06: Make a plan before cutting!

Don’t go for cutting without a plan. If you start cutting without any pre-plan, you can cut a healthy branch, leaving the dead or diseased branches. In the planning, there should be a central branch and some lateral branches out of the trunk.

Also, the lower part of the tree should have larger limbs than the upper part of the tree. Here I am mentioning those parts of the tree that you need to remove.

Dead, damaged, and diseased branches

Remove the diseased, damaged, and dead branches. There won’t be any fruit buds, flowers, or leaves on the dead branches, and the damaged limbs may have injuries. Therefore these limbs can be the cause of pest or disease attacks.

Besides that, the diseased limbs don’t belong to the fruit tree. So, you should remove them as soon as possible to stop the spreading of the problems. 

Scaffold branches

Remove the scaffold branch for good air circulation since it is essential for preventing pests and diseases. Scaffold branches are the large branches that come out of the trunk.

So, by cutting some of them for good air circulation into the canopy. 

You can cut 2 to 3 larger limbs as they will compete for nutrients with the central limb. You don’t need to cut the third limb if the tree looks healthy after cutting two branches.

But don’t cut the branches at a large number in a particular season. Otherwise, the tree will go into shock.

Sail branches

Sometimes new trees can grow on the scaffold or side branches of an old apple tree. They are known as sail branches. These sail branches can harm the tree by putting on extra pressure on the tree.

So, you need to remove these branches to maintain the stability of the old tree. 

Water shoots

Water shoots are those leafy limbs that grow upwards out of the scaffold branches. In the initial years of planting, they may help the tree with energy collection.

But when the trees grow old, the water sprouts drain energy from the tree. So, it is better to remove them.

Step 07: Cut according to the plan!

Once you have done the planning, start cutting according to your planning. Cut the problematic branches closely from the joint with the trunk. Secure the limbs with your hand while cutting so that it can’t peel off the bark while dropping. 

Furthermore, cut the thick branches from both tops and down in two sessions for cutting promptly. Also, cut the limbs at 90 degrees angle to the ground. Horizontal cuts can rot by collecting water.

Overall, remove all the unnecessary heavy branches that can stress your tree. 

prune old apple tree

Pruning aftercare for your old apple tree!

  • Use a 6-24-24 fertilizer or a particular type of fertilizer that is for the old trees. Apply the fertilizer based on your tree size, as well as follow the label of the packaging. Besides this, you can use some organic fertilizers that contain blood meal, composted manure, cottonseed meal, feather meal, or soybean meal. 
  • Use the fertilizer 12 inches or 30 cm away from the trunk. 
  • After applying fertilizer, scratch the fertilizer towards the drip line. Usually, the drip line lays down in the soil according to the edges of the branches. So when it rains, the water will penetrate the fertilizer inside the soil surface.  
  • Cover the fertilizer with 1 inch of compost 
  • Water the composting area about 10 inches deep. You can dig in a 10-inch hole to measure the watering amount. 
  • You can also add a layer of mulch on top of the compost to retain the moisture. 

Final thoughts on pruning the old apple tree!

Pruning can help your old apple tree to produce the fruits again! If the plant is not like dead wood, you can prune the plant to produce fruit. Don’t give up on your old apple tree.

Follow the steps and maintain the aftercare activities. I hope you will get a bountiful crop from the neglected trees of your garden.

I wish you all the best!

When is the best time to prune an apple tree?

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Pruning is a must thing for the proper growth of a tree. But people prune the tree at the wrong time, and as a result, they can’t get the best out of pruning. So, when is the best time to prune an apple tree? 

The dormant season is the best time for pruning the apple tree. You can either prune the tree in late winter on in early spring. It is better to prune the tree between the leaf falls and buds blooming. 

The result of pruning my apple tree surprised me when I prune it for the first time! I prune my apple tree at the suggestion of my friend at that time. I was a little bit confused about pruning. It was like how cutting the tree can help in the growth of the tree.

You should know the best time for pruning since it is essential for the growth of the tree. By this, you can prune the tree at the proper time without damaging the tree. So, here I am going to talk about the best time for pruning. Let’s dig in deeper!

best time to prune an apple tree

The pruning time is here!

Without pruning, the apple trees get stuck with old branches and lose their fruit production ability. That’s why pruning is essential for growing new fruit branches on the tree. Pruning not only helps to shape the tree but also encourages new growth and higher fruit production. 

Late winter or early spring is the best time for pruning. If you want to resize the plant, early spring is the best for it. Again, if you desire to prune the tree for growth, late winter is the best time for it. But you can prune the tree during summer too! So, let’s know more about pruning times.

SeasonPruning results

Winter

For active growth

Spring, Summer

For shaping the tree

Fall, Autumn

Damage the tree’s life cycle

Pruning in winter

Usually, during fall, the trees suck out all the energies from leaves and store them in the roots for winter. That’s why the leaves drop off the tree in winter. Though the tree does not grow during winter, the roots keep growing. So, the trees do not use much energy during winter and remain dormant. 

During the dormant season, there will be no leaves, flowers, or fruit and so it will be easier for you to detect the branches that need cutting. However, it is good to avoid pruning in early winter as the trees have minimal growth at this time. So, the tree cannot recover from the pruning cuts. On the other hand, if you prune it in late winter, the tree can heal the plant cuts in spring. 

Moreover, pruning trees in winter is helpful for both identifying branches, and this pruning encourages dynamic growth for trees. When you can remove the low-quality stem from the tree, there will be the best branches only. So, that means there will be no low-quality branches left on the tree for wasting energy. Rather than that, the tree will focus on growing high-quality stems.  

Also, after pruning, there will be fewer limbs on the tree for using energy. For example, there might be 70 branches on the tree earlier. But after pruning, the tree may have around 40 stems left.

So, you can notice how much the branches number has reduced. As a result, each branch will receive a lot of energy than earlier and produce better fruits. 

Pruning in spring

During spring, the tree comes out of its dormancy and gradually starts growing using the stored energy. The buds will bloom, and leaves, baby fruits, and shoots will grow. 

Some gardeners like to prune the apple tree during spring when the leaves and new shoots develop. Pruning in spring is beneficial to remove the dead, dry, and old branches from the apple tree. 

However, pruning in spring does not encourage dynamic growth for trees. Like the tree would have if you pruned them in late winter. As you can see, the tree has used some energy such as for blooming, growing leaves, shoots, or new fruits.

So there will be less growth of wood limbs. That’s why spring pruning is best for shaping the tree size and not for dynamic growth. 

Pruning in summer

During summer, the trees are busy collecting nutrients and energy. Since it has used all of its nutrients and energy during spring, it will need to collect nutrients and energy for summer growth. As the leaves are regrown, they can produce energy using photosynthesis.

Using this, they continue their growth in summer. Once the summer growth ends, they start to restore energy for winter.

Summer pruning is beneficial for apple trees for shaping the tree. The tree may not have a dynamic growth as it does not have much energy restored. But the large fruit trees can turn into smaller ones by summer pruning.  

If you don’t prune the fruit tree in summer, you can do it in summer. Also, this time you can remove the newborn damaged or diseased branches that you couldn’t do in spring.

Pruning in fall and autumn

Pruning in fall and autumn is not a good idea as it can hinder the natural timing of the tree’s dormancy. Fall and autumn are the seasons when the apple trees prepare themselves for the dormant season. 

Since the tree prepares itself for the dormant season, the growth rate falls. So, if you prune the tree during this time, it will accelerate its growth for healing the prune damage. As a result, the tree will much of its energy and delay the natural process of dormancy.

That’s why it’s not the best time for pruning during fall or autumn. 

Time for pruning the diseased plant

There is no specific time limit for pruning the diseased apple tree. You can prune the tree as soon as you notice the diseased branch. During winter, the disease problem may rise as the limbs are in a bare state. But it is better to prune the branches during late winter to recover from the cut as soon as possible.

Besides that, new diseases can attack the plant using the cut as an entrance to the plant. So, it is better not to cut in winter. 

Though most of the diseases are dormant in winter, they can affect the tree. So, it is wise to remove the diseased limb as soon as possible. But before pruning, you have to identify whether pruning can help to remove the disease or not. Also, to which extent do you have to cut the branch.

Temperature is a fact!

When we cut a limb, the tissues around the cut become more sensitive to cold. The more you will make cuts, the higher sensitive the tree becomes. Especially the newly planted trees cannot take the tension because of these cuts. Besides that, you should avoid cutting the old and weak mature trees during a time of extreme cold. 

If the pruners can handle the cold, your tree will also be able to endure it. The chill sensitivity of the limbs may last for ten days after cutting. After that, the branch starts to regain its winter hardiness and return to its old state. However, the moderately cold temperature doesn’t harm as much as the suddenly dropped temperature harms.

Such as the weather is warm or slightly chill for a few days, but the weather suddenly turns intensively cool. This time your trees need extra protection and no winter injury on the limbs. 

If you want to protect the apple tree during intense cold days, you can check the long-range forecast. If the weather forecast shows the prediction of having 0° F or below than that, you should stop all pruning at least a week before the date. 

Besides that, you should prune the trees based on tree health. You cannot prune weak or young trees during the winter season. But you can prune the mature, healthy apple tree of your garden. 

Some simple tips for pruning!

You can either prune the mature apple tree or the younger one. But the following simple pruning tips will help you: 

  • Always use hand pruning shears or pruners for proper pruning. 
  • Prune the newly planted tree in spring or summer by cutting it from 20 to 30 inches above the ground. Also, cut the other shoots and branches to 6 inches.  
  • During summer, select three branches evenly arranged on the tree that will serve as the scaffold branches. The branches should be at a 45-degree angle with the trunk. The scaffold branches should be cut back to 24 inches, and the other shoots and branches should be cut back to 12 inches. Also, you have to make sure the limbs have enough vertical distance between them. 
  • During the second growing season, select several vigorous lateral branches on the scaffold branches. The lateral branches should be at a 60-degree angle with the central leader. Cut the scaffold branch back to the lateral branches and remove all the larger branches or dead wood.
  • Prune the tree every following year. It is essential to keep the tree canopy open to the sunlight and manage the vigorous growth of the upright shoots. Annual pruning will also help to keep the tree in a manageable shape. 

Few last words for you

Pruning at the proper time is as crucial as pruning the tree. Pruning at the wrong time can put the tree’s life in danger. There are several times when the trees cannot recover from the cutting.

Also, fungal diseases can attack effortlessly from the cutting place if the place does not recover quickly. That’s why it is essential to prune the tree when the tree can recover fast.

I hope you understand why the timing is so crucial in pruning & when is the best time to prune an apple tree. This information on pruning will help you during your apple cultivating journey. All the best!

How deep do apple tree roots grow?

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Knowing the depth of the apple tree roots will help you to add sufficient water. Also, you will learn how deeply you should water the tree. It will also help you to measure the gaps between trees while planting.

When my neighbor planted an apple tree for the first time, he was worried that the roots might get inside his house. It may sound silly. But so many people think like that because of the small space. 

However, before planting an apple tree, you should know about the depth of its roots. It will help you with the plant’s care too! So, how deep do apple tree roots grow? 

The vertical roots of the standard full-size tree will grow up to 20-25 feet deep. The dwarf apple tree’s roots will grow up to 15 feet deep. In most cases, the roots spread up to three times deeper than that of actual tree size. Under perfect weather, ideal soil type, and moisture conditions, the roots can reach their maximum height within two to three years.

Well, the depth of the roots depends on different factors! That’s why I am here to give some specific information about the depth and the growth of the roots of an apple tree. So, let’s dig in deeper!

How deep do apple tree roots grow

The roots formation of an apple tree!

Though you are buying young apple trees for local garden centers or nurseries, the starting of this plant is from seeds. After sowing the seeds into the soil, they will germinate after a specific time. When the seed germinates, the taproot builds up to anchor the plant in the ground.

After a year, when the plant keeps growing, the taproot dies to form a new root system. There are some vertical, deep roots for anchoring and some wide-spreading horizontal fibrous roots.

As a result, the root system looks like a big ball of roots.

How deep roots an apple tree has!

Well, the root system of an apple tree has two different types of roots. They are deep roots and fibrous along with feeder roots.

So, let’s see how deep these roots can go!

Deep roots of the tree

These roots are for anchoring the plant into the soil. We can say that the existence of the plant somehow depends on these roots. They also help to survive the plant during crucial times. Deep roots are formed beneath the trunk when the tree is almost one year old. 

There are only a few vertical, deep roots that grow from the tree trunk. They go deep into the soil. These deep roots can collect water and nutrients from the deeper layer of the ground. That’s why these roots help the tree to survive during drought or harsh wind. 

deep root

However, the deep roots can grow up to 20 to 25 feet deep for the standard rootstock and 15 feet deep for dwarf rootstock. It may take two to three years for the roots to reach the maximum depth.

Fibrous roots of the tree

These types of roots are essential for the photosynthesis process. Though they are not directly related to the survival of the apple tree, they are indirectly active in the survival tasks.

The fibrous roots are responsible for absorbing sunlight from the air and water, and nutrients from the soil. 

These roots grow from deep roots. They are made of fiber and create a network system throughout the whole root system. These roots grow horizontally or radially in all directions and penetrate the soil.

Thus these roots can gather water and nutrients from all sides! Also, these roots can grow up to 3 feet deep from the soil surface. 

Feeder roots of the tree

The feeder roots of apple trees are like root hairs that grow out of fibrous roots. These tiny, narrow, fine, and non-woody fiber roots are there for absorbing water, oxygen, and nutrients. They are 0.2 – 1mm wide in diameter and 1 – 2 mm long. 

The impacts of rootstocks on root growth!

Rootstocks play a vital role in determining the growth of the roots. There are different varieties of rootstocks like the dwarf, semi-dwarf, or standard size. The rootstocks also determine how mass the Roots of the tree will be.

For example, the M.9 and M.26 rootstocks are semi-dwarf rootstocks. But the M.26 is a vigorous rootstock. Again the M.9 rootstock tree may need staking, and on the other hand, the M.26 can do better without staking. 

Root growths in different seasons

apple tree root

Spring

During this season, the roots experienced extensive growth. In the spring season, apple trees produce flower buds. So the fibrous roots and feeder roots spread deep and wide to collect nutrients and water for the tree. The root’s growth terminates when the budding is over.

For the first few years, the tree might not produce fruits. It is because, during spring, the tree spends all its energy strengthening its root system.

Once the roots are strong, the tree puts all its nutrients into producing fruits and leaves. 

Summer 

During summer, the trees spend their nutrients, water, and energy on developing the existing fruits. So usually, the roots don’t grow during summer. During this time, the newly planted trees become a little stressed as they don’t have established roots.

In the summer heat, the fruit’s weight creates pressure on the root system. 

Fall

When the harvesting is over, the tree starts taking preparation for the dormant season. The feeder roots might die, but the fibrous roots keep growing this season.

The fibrous roots use the stored energy for growing. This root growth will help to gain better anchorage for mature trees.

Winters

The fibrous roots start growing during fall and continue to grow till the soil temperature is warm enough. But the other part of the tree becomes dormant. The roots keep growing slowly and steadily until the soil freezes. The root growth in winter helps the roots to grow stronger.

As a result, the apple tree can avoid the competition for nutrients and water from other plants or grasses.

Facts to keep in mind for proper root growth

fruit tree

The root growth of this fruit tree is dependent on soil texture, moisture, and adequate nutrients. 

  • Soil type: Well-drained, loose soil is the ideal type of soil for these fruit tree roots. If you want to use clay soil, use some organic matter to improve the drainage quality. 
  • Nutrients: Apples require Nitrogen and Phosphorus to grow. If you want to increase the harvest, you can use Nitrogen and Phosphorus after harvesting.
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  • Watering: Provide one inch or 2.5 cm of water per week or for ten days. You can water deeply once a week. 
  • Mulching: Mulch will not only retain the moisture of the soil but also will prevent weeds. Also, the frost will not be able to damage the tree. But I don’t prefer using mulch in heavy soil. Using it in loose soil will give a better result.
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  • Fertilizing: Fertilizers will help the trees have healthy root growth. For vigorous root growth, it is better to use fertilizer containing Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.

Apple trees are not invasive!

The root size of an apple tree can be two to three times deeper and wide than the tree size! But this doesn’t mean apple trees are invasive.

The roots will not cause damage to the nearby houses or sewer pipes. They will not damage your garden too!

The final thoughts!

Growing an apple tree on the backyard lawn is not a difficult task! Well, it might be a little bit difficult but don’t give up.

There is no need to be afraid that the deep roots of the apple tree will harm the sewer pipes or other infrastructures on the lawn.

You can cultivate the apple trees without any worries. But also make sure that you are taking care of the plant properly for healthy root growth. The healthier the roots are, the stronger the trees will be at their maturity!

How much water does an apple tree need per day?

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Water is an essential factor for growing an apple tree. I have seen many people who complain about their apple tree’s growth. When I go through their plant care routine, I notice that the problem was their watering method.

Either their over-watering kill the plant or their under-watering stop the growth of the plant. Ultimately, they are harming the plant growth to death. So, like any other fruit tree, the amount of water for the apple plant should also be perfect. 

So, how much water does an apple tree need per day?

A mature apple tree needs one inch or 2.5 cm of water for 7 to 10 days. An apple tree that is growing or at a young age requires a lot of water. Water the plant with 5 gallons of water per day (3 times per week). 

Apple trees don’t need too much water. But without water, it is difficult for the tree to survive. Well, the watering also depends on various factors like soil, weather, and so on.

So, here I will talk about those watering tips that you will need to apply for this fruit tree. Let’s dig in deeper!

How much water does an apple tree need per day?

Does the apple tree need too much water?

An apple tree is great to plant in backyards or indoors. This fruit tree doesn’t need too much water. If it rains for an inch, there will be no need to add water to the plant. However, during the growing season, the plant may need a little bit more water. The amount is approximately 15 gallons per week.

The first year after planting is a crucial year for the growth of the plant. During this time, the plant needs extra care! So, the plant also needs some more water, and don’t forget to take care of that matter!

The watering care tips for the apple tree!

Understand your plant!

Well, understanding your plant means that you should analyze the life stages of the apple tree. For example, the apple tree needs the highest amount of water during its growing period and the lowest during its maturity. Again, without enough water, the tree can’t bear fruit. The fruit may drop out of the tree.

So, it is necessary to provide the tree with proper irrigation when it is yielding fruits. For example, add water daily for one to two weeks after planting. After that, water for two to three days per week for the next 3-12 weeks.

Also, every week you can add 10 gallons of water for an inch of trunk caliper of a mature tree, according to the rule of thumb.

Water after considering the soil texture

Soil-texure-triangle

We all know apple trees need loamy soil to grow. But it may thrive in sandy or clay soil too! When you are putting the plant in the sandy soil, it will drain the water so quickly and turn dry. That’s why you need to water it frequently to maintain the soil moisture.

Again, when you are using clay soil, you can water the soil hardly. You can check the dryness level of the soil and water the plant as it retains water the most.

However, using loamy soil is preferable since both its drainage quality and water retention quality are good. Also, you can water the plant in a guided way.

Check the weather before watering

Weather can affect the amount of water you are putting in your apple tree. When it is hot weather in summer, the tree will need more water. Due to high temperatures, the soil will dry out quickly, and you will have to water it frequently during summer.

On the other hand, due to cold temperatures in winter, the evaporation will be less. In this way, the soil will remain moist. Then there will be no need for frequent watering.

If it rains for an inch within a week or ten days, there will be no need to water as the water demand is covered.

Use a proper way of watering

There are several ways of watering, such as drip irrigation, sprinkling water, or direct watering using a hose. When you want to add a tiny amount of water, you can use a sprinkler. During drought, you can use the hose for putting water directly. You can stick the hose close to the roots with a slow trickle.

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By this, the water won’t spread through the whole soil surface. But I prefer drip irrigation. Drip irrigation is a handful method for slow and deep watering.

Using this method can also maintain the soil moisture for a long time. However, don’t let the water touch any leaf or branches of the tree!  

Maintain consistency

Keep your soil moist in a consistent way and keep the watering rate the same. Don’t do overwatering for some days and under-watering the other days. If you do overwatering, it may result in root rot.

On the other hand, if you do under-watering, the tree or the fruits may suffer. That’s why always try to keep the water amount at the same level. 

Always do deep watering

With the growth of the tree, the root ball also grows under the soil. It may go under a few inches of soil.

Since the root is responsible for bearing the water to the leaf and the whole tree, the root ball should receive the water properly. That’s why the water should go deep down the soil, under the tree canopy.

For this reason, deep watering is a must! For deep watering, you can always rely on drip irrigation. 

Use mulch for water retention

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Mulch will help you to maintain the moisture of the soil for a long time. Apply a layer of mulch about 2-4 inches deep, and you will get the benefits. Mulch will prevent the fast drying out of the soil!

Don’t miss watering for a single season of the year

Many people think that they don’t need to add water during winter. Winter is the dormant season for an apple tree. Though it is the dormant season, the tree still keeps growing. That’s why during dry spells, you should add water too!

When the temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you can add water to the plant. You will get to see the benefits later!

Few Last words for you

Your apple tree doesn’t need lots of water. The young plants may indeed need some bucket of water. On the opposite of this, the mature plants don’t need a lot of water. Mature trees can survive with an inch of rainfall!

I assume you have gotten all the details about watering, and there is no confusion left behind. I hope that this information will help you with the right amount of water for your apple tree.

Have a good gardening journey!  

When should I spray my apple tree?

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My neighbor doesn’t want to spray his apple tree to maintain the authenticity of the fruit. He used to think that the chemicals can harm the taste of the fruit. But that’s not true. He had to spray it once the insects attacked his tree. 

Don’t think like that and also do not do this as my neighbor does! If you want to protect your apple tree, you must have to spray the tree. 

So when should I spray my apple tree?

Starting from the time of petal dropping, you can spray the apple tree before the harvest time. Though it’s the best time for applying insecticides and fungicides, feel free to put these products in different seasons throughout the whole year. The amount and timing of applications depend on the tree’s condition and requirement. From petal drops to the pre-harvesting period, you can have several applications of the insecticide. 

Spraying the tree is needed as much sunlight, water, healthy soil, and fertilizer. If you want to have a healthy and pest-free tree, you will need several applications of pesticides at the appropriate time. 

Since the timing is so important, you need to know about it. Here I am going to tell you about the times of applications. Let’s dig in deeper!

When should I spray my apple tree

What to spray on the tree?

There are so many sprays available in the market. Here, I have mentioned various spray products that you can use for your apple tree. 

Dormant Spray

It is a horticultural oil that is also known as dormant oil. Mainly it is sprayed on the trees during the dormant season. It kills the scale insects, mealy bugs, aphids, powdery mildew, and mites that grow on the barks.

There are two forms of dormant spray, one is mineral-based, and the other one is plant-based.

Insecticidal Spray

This spray is for killing insects. Insecticidal removes the insects from foliage, trunk, or from developing fruits. It is better to spray it during the growing season.

Also, avoid spraying during flowers blooming season as insecticides can kill the pollinators also. 

Fungicidal Spray

This spray is to control the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. During the growing season, you can apply it to prevent fungal attacks on the apple tree. This spray is not for insects, but it can kill pollinators.

So, you better avoid spraying it during the blossom season. 

General-purpose Spray

It is a commonly used spray to control insects and prevent diseases. You don’t need too much knowledge of that particular disease or plant life cycle to spray this. But it is a mixture of fungicides and insecticides, so sometimes it may result in using an unnecessary product for your tree.

For example, your plant requires fungicides only. But when you are using a general-purpose spray, it may add pesticides too. In addition, it may not work for that particular disease or insect on your trees. 

Foliar Fertilizer Spray

This product is a mixture of micronutrients that are essential for the growth of fruits. Sometimes, there may be lacking nutrients in the soil.

So, if you mix the micronutrients like zinc, copper, magnesium, molybdenum, and boron with water and spray it on the foliage, the foliage will absorb that ingredient.

You can apply the macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium to the roots area. After the absorption, the elements will start working for the growth of growing fruits. 

Spray products based on the diseases

Disease NameProduct Name

Fire Blight

Fire Blight Spray

Powdery Mildew

Copper Fungicide

Scab

Fungicide Spray

Spray products based on the pests

Pests NameProduct Name

Spider Mites

Insecticide spray and keep the plant healthy

Codling Moth

Bonide Insecticide

Tent Caterpillars

Bonide Insecticide

Apple Maggot

Kaolin clay solution

Aphids

Bonide all season dormant spray oil and insecticide concentrate

Time for spraying the tree!

The insecticide and fungicide applications can vary depending on the various disease. The applications of those products can also be different based on the lifecycle of the apple plant. The life stage of the apple tree is dormancy, pre-blossom, blossom, petal drop, and fruit formation. 

So, you might be thinking about why it is required to know all these about the application. You can apply this or that spray according to your preference.

But that will not work. Use the sprays accordingly and appropriately so that they can’t harm the trees! So, let’s know about the timing!

spraying the apple tree

Use general-purpose spray during the growth!

This fruit tree spray can reduce your application time since it is a mixture of fungicides and insecticides. As a result, you don’t have to spend time spraying insecticides and fungicides separately.

This spray product contains organic products (like pyrethrins, and neem oil) and inorganic products (like malathion, carbaryl, and captan). 

Spray this fruit tree spray after every 2 to 3 weeks later during the growing season. Start applying it when the plant is at the green bud stage. Keep spraying it till two weeks later of the petal drops. But avoid applying it during blossom season as it might kill the pollinators.

In addition, you can use some variations of this product until harvest. On the other hand, you can’t use some variations after fruit formation. So it is strictly recommended to follow the product label before use. 

Use dormant spray during winter!

We usually apply this dormant oil or spray during winter or early spring to kill the overwintering pests. Generally, based on the previous year’s pest attack experience will help you to identify whether you have to apply it or not.

You can spray this spray after every 3 to 5 years. There is no need to maintain it annually unless the pest attacks are severe. 

You must apply this spray within the dormant season. Once the flowers bloom, you can’t spray the tree. Also, make sure that the air temperature is above 40 degrees.

Furthermore, spray it only on the branches and not the soil surface. 

Use fungicidal spray during the growth!

This spray can improve the fruit quality by keeping the fungal diseases away from the tree. Fungus and bacteria attack the tree when the environment is in their favor.

Some of the fungus and bacteria may attack during summer, some during winter or spring. So, it’s better to control them before the attacks. 

There is different spray schedule for different types of fruit trees. It’s better to use this product during the fruit formation period when the petal fall season ends.

In addition, check the product label before application so that the trees will not get harmed.

Use insecticidal during the growing season!

Start using this spray when you want to keep the pests under control. Starting from the green bud stage, you can use this spray until the harvest season arrives. But make sure that you are not using it during blossom season as it can kill the pollinators. Maintain two weeks intervals per application. 

It’s better to avoid using the same insecticide repeatedly as the insects can create tolerance against it. That’s why to solve this problem using different types of insecticides by turn.

For example, you can use the general-purpose spray for a few days and then switch to another insecticide for a few days. Like this, the pests won’t be able to create tolerance against that insecticide.

However, don’t forget to check the application instructions mentioned on the package.

Use foliar fertilizer during fruit development!

If you notice the sign of the deficiency of micronutrients on your plant, this foliar fertilizer will help you get rid of the lacking. Apply this spray in cold weather when the petals are about to drop.

When you are applying the micronutrients, make sure you are not spraying any unnecessary nutrients. The over-application of any nutrients can damage the tree.

The best time for applying it is in early spring when the leaf buds are open. Apply the fertilizer to the leaves, and the leaves will absorb the fertilizer and carry it to the fruits. Don’t apply it after the mid-spring. 

apple trees

Spray schedule based on months

Till now, I have mentioned spray timing based on seasons or the apple plant’s lifecycle. But I think it will be helpful for you if I give you the monthly schedule for spraying.

So, take a look at the following chart.

SeasonMonthActivities

Winter

November – February

Pruning, removing garden debris, and dead leaves, and spraying dormant oil.

Spring

March – April

Spray insecticides to control aphids, and mites along with spray fungicides for apple scab, powdery mildew, and fire blight.

Summer

May – September

During the flowers blooming spread codling moth traps

Fall

September – October

Spray insecticides 

Few Last words for you

The best way to prevent insects and apple diseases is to spray apple trees. But most people make mistakes while spraying the trees. Either they spray the trees at the wrong time, or they apply inappropriate insecticides or fungicides.

The improper application of the spray product can harm the tree severely. But I don’t want you to make these mistakes! That’s why I have given this guideline about the spray schedules of apple trees.

I hope this schedule will help you with the whole spray thing and have a bountiful crop of apples! 

Some Common Snake Plant Problems and Diseases

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If there was a list of the most tolerable indoor plants on the planet, snake plants would undoubtedly be near the top. Snake plants are without a doubt the easiest plant to grow, with the least amount of regular maintenance and effort required.

Anyone can grow the perfect plant anywhere, including your bedroom, kitchen, lawn, and even at the bathroom corner. Wherever you keep them, they will provide you with green foliage without bothering you or requiring you to provide much plant care.

Because of its incredible air purification capacity, the snake plant is also becoming a popular indoor plant. Keeping a snake plant next to your bed is like keeping an oxygen plant next to you.

Some Common Snake Plant Problems and Diseases

According to NASA research, this tropical plant not only provides oxygen but also removes toxins from your home and purifies the air. All these factors contribute to the plant’s popularity and suitability for indoor gardening.

However, like other living beings, the snake plant also suffers from various diseases and sometimes pest attacks. Some of them are, yellow leaves curling, wrinkled leaves, leaves falling over, and so forth.

As a gardener, you must identify some common snake plant problems and diseases & strive hard to prevent this in your plant, and try to resolve them if they happen.

Why Snake Plant Leaves are Turning Yellow

You may suddenly see that the snake plant leaf is turning yellow or there are yellow spots in the leaves of your plant. Although snake plants hardly suffer from sickness, excessive negligence may cause the plant to suffer.

In yellow leaf, the yellowing in snake plant begins at the leaf tips. Minor curling of the leaf’s tips may follow, which occurs when that area of the leaf dies. As a result, the plant may appear to be wilting or losing its variegation.

snake plant leaf yellowing

Several factors contribute to snake plant leaf yellowing. Temperatures around freezing can damage some or all the leaves on tropical plants.

This can happen when a plant is exposed to a cold windowpane, whether it’s outside or indoors. It’s also possible that water will be a factor.

Plants that don’t get enough water begin to dry out, and their leaves begin to yellow from the tips down.

Root rot can be caused by too much water in the soil. Infected roots slowly kill the plant. this may lead to causing the death of snake plants.

A general rule of thumb is to water snake plants when their soil is barely moist, and only every other month in the winter.

Why Snake Plant Leaves are Curling

You might find your snake plant’s leaves are curling and you want to cure the problem. It’s important to look for indicators of plant stress and to determine the root cause of the problem to know what to do next.

Leaf curling on a snake plant is most likely caused by an insect infestation Curled leaves can also be caused by overwatering, cold stress, and fungal diseases.

Leaf curling on a snake plant

Your snake plant might be suffering from curling leaves due to a wide range of reasons.

Lack of proper indirect sunlight light or light conditions, inconsistent watering, improper fertilization or temperature, root rot, and root bound can be among the list of possible reasons for leaves curling. Transplant shock, insect infestation.

Why Snake Plant’s Leaves are Falling Over

You may notice that the leaf on your snake plant is falling. Not all the leaves nor entire leaves to be precise, but a portion of your plan plant may be a leaf or two. This may happen due to overwatering, improper lighting, or improper temperature issues.

As a tropical succulent plant, the snake plant had the ability to store water in its leaves, roots, and rhizomes. Excessive water pressurized these places to store excessive water.

Hence, once healthy leaves start to mosh out and then mushy leaves start to fall after a certain time.

Why are the Leaves of Snake Plant Wrinkled

During spring and summer, you’ll notice that your snake plant’s leaves are a richer dark green, and the grey stripes are more visible. The leaves may wrinkle during the hot season when temperatures are high. High temperatures can cause sansevieria leaves to curl and shrink.

If there is more water loss than intake, causing wrinkles and wilting in the plant’s leaves. Snake plant leaves will curl and shrivel if you don’t water them more often. This may also happen due to getting exposed to excessive sunlight then it can take.

Hot weather, soil-drainage rate, Shock and stress, temperature, and humidity, might also have an indirect impact on wrinkled leaves.

Snake Plant Wrinkled

Possible Solutions to the Issues

Although the problems are various and not related to each other the main reason behind them is that you are not maintaining your plant properly in the way you should take care of your snake plant.

For this here is a list of things you should follow to take care of your snake plant and keep it healthy and lively.

Water once in 2 weeks:

You should water your plants once each two weeks, especially during the summer months. You may need to water your plant less on winter days, even once every four weeks. However, you should check the soil before watering them. You can easily check the soil by putting your finger into the soil.

You should dig about one inch into the soil with your finger and then check if the soil there is moist-free or not. If you find moisture at that level, you should refrain from watering and wait for a few more days.

If you find the word soil completely dry, then go for watering. You should look out for both not watering too much or too little because both are harmful to your plant.

Provide bright indirect light:

The snake plant thrives best in low-light conditions. As with any other succulent plant, they prefer indirect sunlight. You can use LED lights in case there is not sufficient sunlight to use.

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Use less fertilizer:

You should provide the least possible amount of fertilizer to your snake plant. Fertilizer increases water storing capacity in the soil and reduces soil dryness which ultimately makes the soil moist and harms the snake plant.

For this, you pray you must refrain from using much fertilizer and use as little as possible. To be safe, you may only put a handful of organic fertilizer when potting or reporting the plant.

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Maintain Temperature:

Like other succulent plants, snake plants also hate cold, rather it loves to stay in warm places which also makes it relevant to why it is often found in desert areas. You should make sure that your plant stays at more than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anything preacher between 55 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit is the best for your snake plant. So, keep an eye on the plant and the temperature, especially in the winter months

Use well-draining soil:

As snake plant hates wet soils, you should pot the plan in dry well-draining soil. You may use readymade succulent soil or cactus soil to pot your plant.

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You can also simply make a better version of the soil for your plant by mixing 3/4 of the ready-to-use potting soil with 1/4 of the succulent soil.

This will ensure that the soil is well-drained and aerated and friendly for the plant roots. The soil will be naturally richened by adding a handful of compost to it as well.

Dry soil lets the excess water drain fast and lets you control moist conditions for your plant.

Use proper pot:

While planting a snake plant, you should look for a pot that has a good water drainage system with a huge drainage hole. This will aid the water drainage system and keep your plant safe from waterlog or moist soil.

Always keep a reminder about the drainage issue while choosing a pot for the snake plant. A pot with proper drainage will also ensure healthy roots and green leaves.

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All these tips will help you to get a healthy and happy snake plant. So try your best to look after this point these issues and you will get healthy snake plants free from diseases and other issues.

Final words

Snake plants are pretty easy to take care of. You can easily breed a handful of snake plants in various places across your home just if you can maintain the topics mentioned in this article.

Hope you have a great garden full of lively happy plants.